23 June. It is St John’s Eve in one of the Vall de Boí villages. A group of men and women descend the mountain bearing lit torches (falles), led by a trailblazer called fadrí major. The fire-bearing procession snakes down the mountain until reaching the village, where the participants are greeted with food and wine, to the sound of music and church bells. The festival continues all night as the half-burnt torches are thrown onto a bonfire, with locals and visitors alike joining in the fun of this magical, mystical event.